Yodare Boiled Dumplings (Water Gyoza with Spicy Scallion Sauce)

Use one whole long onion, green parts and all. Make diagonal slits in it, flip it over and make diagonal slits on the other side as well, then crush it lightly and mince it coarsely. A coarse mince is fine, to make the most of the texture.

Set aside about 2 tablespoons of the chopped onion. This will be used for the spicy sauce.

Make the sauce. Start with a soy sauce base, add oyster sauce and a pinch of sugar for depth and umami, then stir in a generous amount of chili oil. If you don't like spicy food, swap the chili oil for sesame oil or adjust the amount to your liking.

Heat the mixed sauce briefly in the microwave without covering it with plastic wrap.

While the sauce is still hot, add the reserved onion. The residual heat brings out just the right aroma and texture. Stir in the ginger as well to complete the yodare sauce.

Season the ground pork in a bowl. Add soy sauce, sake, grated ginger, and sesame oil. The sake adds moisture and tames the pork's gaminess.

Before adding the onion, work the seasonings thoroughly into the meat first. Knead it a little, then spread your fingers and mix vigorously.

Finally, add the rest of the onion and mix in the same kneading motion, then fold everything together with big strokes. Once it all comes together, the filling is done.

Wrap using regular-size gyoza wrappers. Since these are water gyoza, a small amount of filling is fine. Moisten the edge of the wrapper and seal one spot at the center first. Then scrunch one half toward the center, and do the same with the other half. Gathering the ends creates natural pleats and seals it tightly.

Drop the dumplings into boiling water. Give them a quick stir right after adding so they don't stick to the bottom. Boil them in about two batches.

Boil for a few minutes after the dumplings float to the surface. Stir and check on them along the way, and once the wrappers turn smooth and glossy, drain them in a colander.

Since they go straight onto the plate, drain them well. Plate them and pour on plenty of the yodare sauce. You can also serve the sauce on the side and spoon it on as you eat.