The Ultimate Mapo Tofu with Cod Milt

Cut the banno negi. Cut the firm lower parts into 1cm widths and slice the tender leafy parts thinly, then set them together.

Mince the white scallion. Move the knife in a sliding back-and-forth motion so you do not crush the fibers. Never press down or chop at it, as this releases juices that cause an oniony smell and bitterness.

Tear the atsuage by hand rather than cutting it with a knife. Tearing lets the surfaces blend into the mapo and spreads the fried aroma throughout.

Using scissors, divide the cod milt into bite-sized pieces. Trying to remove the membranes in detail will make it fall apart, so just even out the sizes.

Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a frying pan, add the ground pork, and stir-fry. Keep frying past the point where it is simply cooked through, until it becomes crisp and crumbly. When done, drain it in a strainer and reserve the oil.

Bring water to a boil in a pot and add the cod milt. Keep it at a low simmer rather than a rolling boil, cover, and let it cook through as it sits.

Using the oil from frying the ground pork, add the grated garlic, douchi, doubanjiang, and koji miso with the heat off (cold start), and fry them slowly to bring out the aroma. Do not add any extra oil.

Once the aroma comes out, add 150ml of water and 1/2 teaspoon of Chinese soup stock, then add 1 tablespoon of cooking sake, 1 teaspoon of soy sauce, and pepper to set the flavor.

Raise the heat and add the torn atsuage. Taste once to check the seasoning.

Add the scallions and the fried ground pork and heat through. As the scallions cook, they release sweetness. Before adding the cod milt, thicken the sauce well with 2 tablespoons of potato starch dissolved in water so everything comes together.

Drain the boiled cod milt in a strainer, add it to the pot, and mix gently. Add chili oil and heat it through slowly so it does not break apart.

Finally, bring it to a full boil, and when the center of the whole dish is bubbling, it is done. Serve in a bowl and sprinkle lightly with Sichuan pepper.